Situated on the River Tiber, between the Apennine Mountains and the Tyrrhenian Sea, the "Eternal City" was once the administrative center of the mighty Roman Empire, governing a vast region that stretched all the way from Britain to Mesopotamia. Today it remains the seat of the Italian government and home to numerous ministerial offices.

The metropolitan area is home to around 3.3 million people.

For two weeks in August, many of Rome's inhabitants shut up shop (literally) and go on their own vacations; many stores and other amenities will be closed during this time. The temperature in the city centre at this time of year is not particularly pleasant. If you do travel to Rome at this time, be prepared to see Chiuso per ferie (Closed for holidays) signs on many establishments.

Get around

By taxi

Taxis are the most expensive way to get around Rome. When you get in the cab there will be a fixed starting charge. Supplements may be requested for luggage, including shopping bags, night-time runs and public holidays.

Cab stands are placed all over the city too, so flagging one down is not a problem. Be warned that when you phone for a taxi, the cab's meter starts running when it is summoned, not when it arrives to pick you up, so by the time a cab arrives at your location there may already be a substantial amount on the meter.

The main taxi companies may be called at 063570 and 065551.

Rome also has several taxi cooperatives:

• La Capitale, Tel 064994
• Roma Sud, Tel 066645
• Cosmos, Tel 0688177

Taxi tricksters

Some private citizens dress up their cars to look like cabs. These people strategically locate themselves at airports and railway stations waiting for travelers. Beware of operators who don't display a licensed meter and ID. Use only authorized taxis (white vehicles with a taximeter) that are available in the arrivals areas of the terminals. Also, some airport employees may direct you to a 'Taxi' driver if you ask where you find them when you are inside the airport terminal. The 'Taxi' could end up being a Mercedes limo, costing you double the fare of a real taxi, and a tricky situation to get out of as your luggage is locked away in the limo's trunk.

By foot

Once you're in the center you're best off on foot. What could be more romantic than strolling through Rome on foot holding hands? Hard to beat!

Crossing a street in Rome can be challenging. There are crosswalks, but these are rarely located at signaled intersections. Traffic can be intimidating, but if you are at a crosswalk the secret to getting across is to just start walking. Cars will not slow down, but they will alter their trajectory to avoid hitting you. Do not try to run across, or anticipate gaps in traffic. Keep a steady pace, look straight ahead, and you'll get to the other side safely.

By bus

Roman buses are not known for running on strict and reliable schedules. But they are a great way to get around to all parts of the city, as long as you're not in a hurry.

The buses basically operate on the honor system, but ATAC does police the bus system for people riding without tickets. ATAC officers may board at every door of the bus just before the bus leaves and check every passenger on the bus. Stamp the ticket before boarding the MetRo, or on board the bus or tram, or face a €100 fine. Though inspectors are rare, if you don't have sufficient money on you to pay the fine, they will actually escort you to an ATM to pay the fee. If you don't have an ATM card to withdraw money, the officers have been known to take you to jail for at most 24 hours.

Maps of the bus system are available for purchase (3.5 euro at Termini). Bus stops list the stops of the bus, but without a map, you will have a hard time using the city buses. Bus drivers try to be helpful, but most are not fluent in English. It is helpful if you know basic Italian.

• Transport ticket (biglietti per autobus) - one metro ride and as many bus/tram rides as you can do in an hour and a quarter (1 Euro). Tickets can only be purchased at Tabaccheria (big 'T' sign outside), newspaper kiosks or vending machines in some metro stations. You'll have more chances to buy them in "Bars" inside the Metro stations.

• So called "24 hour" tickets are only valid on the day you buy them, not for 24 hours after buying. Be aware that many tabaccherie close on Sunday, so buy your tickets in advance. You can also get tickets for longer periods. For example, a three-day ticket costs €11. They're dead handy, as you can use them on the bus, tram and metro.

• One of the most popular and useful lines is the 40, which arches from the Termini station through the historic center and then up to the Castel Sant'Angelo, near the Vatican. It is considered an express route, so its bus stops are spaced about 1/2 mile (2/3 km) apart; but it is also very frequent, very convenient for most places that the Metro does not go to, and very fast moving, especially compared to other routes.

• Night buses Night buses should be useful due to the closing of the Metro stations at 23:30 and the stop of regular lines of buses and Trams at midnight. During the summer (until 23rd September) and on Fridays and Saturdays, the frequency of the rides is halved, which can vary among 10, 15, 30 and 35 minutes depending on the line, and of course, the particular pace of the city. In any case they are much more punctual than during the day, as traffic is much less jammed. This makes the drivers drive at high speeds, allowing passengers to experience a strange mixture of adrenaline and (the city's) classical views.

By tram

The Tram routes mostly skirt the historic center, but there are stops convenient for the Vatican, the Colosseum, and the Trastevere area. The number 8 does run into the center, not far from the Pantheon. If you want to catch a soccer game at one of the stadiums in the north of the city, catch the tram (2) just north of the Piazza del Popolo.

By Metro

There are two lines, crossing at Termini station. Line A (red line) runs northwest past the Vatican, and south. Line B (Blue Line) runs southwest past the Colosseum and northeast. Through most of 2007 Line A stops running at 9:00 pm. However, it is replaced by two bus routes (MA1 and MA2) that parallel it at 5 minute intervals. Also, through 2007 the Manzoni Metro station is closed for reconstruction. There are nearby tram lines that go right to Termini easily, however. The Metro is the most punctual form of public transportation in Rome, but it can get extremely crowded during rush hour. Watch out for your belongings. Pickpockets are very adept at unzipping pockets of pants and purses on crowded trains.

See

Roman Empire structures

The Colosseum, Forum, and Palatine Hill are all in very close proximity to each other.

• The Colosseum - Entry €11 (€9 if you're under 25). Expect a long queue and an even longer wait. You can skip the queue if you decide to take a tour, but if you don't want a tour, you can STILL skip the queue. If you walk across the street to the Roman Forum, you can buy a day-long pass for €10,or a standard Colosseum + Palatine ticket at €11, better still, a 7-day pass for €22. This pass gets you in to the Colosseum (Colosseo), Palatine Hill (Palatino Hill), the Baths of Caracalla (Terme di Caracalla), and the catacombs as well as the Terme di Diocleziano, Palazza Massimo alle Terme, Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Altemps, Villa dei Quintili, Tomba di Cecilia Metella. If you don't want to cram it all into one day, get the pass. Plus, it is nice to buy a slice of pizza and eat in the gardens of Palatine Hill. There are lots of people offering tours in English just outside the entrance to the Colosseum. Inside you can take a tour (English, Spanish, or German) every 30 minutes or so for an additional fee of €3.5 per person. The tours are given by knowledgeable archeologists, but they don't take you to any areas you couldn't visit on your own.

• The Pantheon - A marvel of ancient architecture, this ancient temple to all the gods is celebrated for its large dome, copied during Greek and Roman revival periods by such designers as Thomas Jefferson, who modeled his Monticello and the Rotunda at the University of Virginia on it. Built during the reign of the emperor Hadrian (AD 125-128), the Pantheon carries a dedication to Marcus Agrippa, who built the original structure on this spot in 27 BC. As it is still a functioning church, silence is requested during your visit. From inside the Pantheon, you'll see traces of the former bronze ceiling, melted down during the reign of Pope Urban VIII to make bombards to for the fortification of the Castel Sant' Angelo. The hole in the center of the ceiling, though, is an original feature designed to admit light. Guides will tell you the spectacular doors are original, but a glance shows that extensive alterations were made to the original doorway in order to accommodate them.

The site surrounding the Pantheon offers a lesson in archaeologial stratigraphy. The building now appears to be built in a recess at the edge of a hill, but this is not the original appearance. The street level at the sides and rear has risen about 10 meters since the original construction due to the accumulation of debris from 2,000 years of settlement. This has necessitated the maintenance of the deep trench that keeps the building from being buried.

Roman Forum

• Roman Forum - If stones could talk: these hallowed ruins were the most powerful seat of government in the world. The Forum is much less crowded than the Colosseum and, from a historical perspective, much more interesting. Free admission, except for an audio guide, which is highly recommended. To stand in the political, legal and religious centre of the whole Roman Empire brings shivers down one's spine. It is the best way of imagining the splendour and glory of ancient Rome.

• Tabularium The remains of the ancient Roman archives, where Cicero and Seneca did research. Visible from the Forum and accessible through the Capitoline Museum.

• Circus Maximus The contours of the ancient stadium are still visible in a city park across the Palatine from the Forum. It was in one of the tunnels here that Caligula met his end.

• Palatine Hill - right next to the Roman Forum, contains the ruins of several large villas that belonged to wealthy Roman families. You can buy a combined ticket for the Palatine Hill and the Colosseum here, avoiding the long lines at the Colosseum.

• Fori Imperiali - Entry €7 (cheaper for EU nationals, free for EU history students). The inside of the fort is very similar to a museum, with a lot of rooms containing items in glass cases. It is a bit of a maze and takes time to orient yourself, but it is worth climbing to very top for a view of the city and the Vatican.

Museums

• The Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1 - 00186 Roma, ☎ 06 82059127 (every day 9.00-19.30) ( This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it , fax: 06 6785488). Tu-Su 9.00am-8.00pm; Dec 24th, 31st 9.00am-2.00pm (the ticket office closes an hour in advance) Closed on Mondays, 25th Dec, 1st Jan, 1st May. Also contain a good collection of classical art, as well as ancient sculpture, including the famous bronze wolf. The Capitoline piazza, between the two museum buildings - designed by Michelangelo, is beautiful. Explore these museums, then head out the back of the square to the Forum, where you'll find the remains of the Temple of the Vestal Virgins, among many other buildings on the way to the Colosseum. Book tickets online Ordinary €6,50 (+ €1,50 for exhibitions), Concessions €4,50 (+ €1,50 for exhibitions)..

• Palazzo Massimo, ☎ 06 39967700. Mo - Sa 9.00-13.30, 14.30 - 17.00. A magnificent collection of ancient Roman sculptures, mosaics and wall paintings, including the famous paintings from the Imperial-era villa discovered under the Villa Farnesina, as well as the bedroom from the Empress Livia's villa at Prima Porta. Located across the piazza from Termini, opposite the Baths of Diocetian. € 7,00.

• Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Museo Borghese (Parco di Villa Borghese) 00197 - Roma, ☎ +39 06 8555952, booking: +39 06 32810 ( This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it , fax: +39 06 32651329.). Tu - Su 9.00 - 19.00 (note: Mandatory exit at the end of allotted 2 hour slot). A small museum that concentrates on the quality rather than the size of its collection. There are some very notable works by Antonio Canova and Gian Lorenzo Bernini here. The number of people admitted is limited to 200 every 2 hours, so make a reservation on-line well in advance for the time slot you want.No cameras are allowed Full €8.50, Concessions €2.00.

• Villa Giulia Museum, Piazzale di Villa Giulia, 9, Villa Borghese 00196 - Roma, ☎ +39 06 3201951. Everyday 8.30 - 19.30. Closed Jan 1st, Dec 25th. The most extensive collection of Etruscan art and artifacts anywhere, well worth the admission charge. They do, however, make you lock up your camera. A difficult museum to find, but a lovely display in a beautiful villa setting. Full: €4.00 Concessions: €2.00.

• Vatican Museums, .

Churches

If you aren't familiar with Roman Catholic churches, take a look inside of any one of these. You'll find the richness and range of decor astonishing, from fine classical art to tacky electric candles. Please note that some churches in Rome deny admission to people who are dressed inappropriately. You will find "fashion police" at Rome's most visited churches - near the front doors of St Peter's, St Paul Outside the Walls, and often Sta Maria Maggiore and San Giovanni in Laterano. Bare shoulders, short skirts, and shorts are officially not allowed. However, long shorts and skirts reaching just above the knee should be no problem. The stricter churches usually have vendors just outside selling inexpensive scarves. Few other churches in Rome enforce dress codes. You can wander into lesser known churches like Sant'Ivo and Sta Maria in Trastevere wearing shorts, sleeveless shirts, or pretty much anything without problems. It is, however, good to keep one's dress tasteful, as these are still churches and houses of prayer for many people.

• St. Pietro - St Peter's - where the Pope resides. Long queues for entry, said to be the finest church on the planet.
• San Carlo alla Quattro Fontane - a very small and beautiful church, the first design commission of Francesco Borromini.
• Sant' Ivo della Sapienza - This little church is hard to find but well worth the extra effort. It is located only a block from Piazza Navona, but not usually visible from the street, as one must enter the courtyard of an old palazzo to reach the church. Sant'Ivo is a small church shaped like the Star of David, with an amazing star-shaped dome and whimsical steeple.
• Santa Maria del Popolo - with a couple of paintings by Caravaggio: "The Crucifixion of Saint Peter" and "The Conversion of Saint Paul"
• San Luigi dei Francesi - This church is roughly halfway between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. It is most notable for a side chapel which contains three Caravaggio masterworks: "The Calling of St. Matthew", "St. Matthew and the Angel" and "Martyrdom of St. Matthew"

Public squares

The Vittoriano Monument, Piazza Venezia

• Largo di Torre Argentina - an excavation of four roman temples and Pompeys theater. The largo is also home to a large amount of cats which are tended by the local animal rights organization.
• Piazza di Trevi - where you can find the famous Fontana di Trevi. It's not a very big piazza and gets very crowded very quickly.
• Piazza di Spagna - under the "Spanish Steps"
• Piazza Navona - Used to be an ancient stadium built by the emperor Domitian and still retains the shape. The fountains are by Bernini and are very notable. Piazza Pasquino is just round the corner.
• Campo de' Fiori - not far from Piazza Navona. Used as a marketplace. In nearby via dei Giubbonari the salumeria Roscioli is worth checking out.
• Piazza Pasquino - piazza about 20m from Piazza Navona. There is a statue here named "Pasquino", apparently named after a tailor working nearby who had a reputation for complaining. The statue is now used as a place to hang messages, complaints and other opinions which has to be shared with the world. The piazza is also home to Cul de Sac, one of the best enoteca in Rome.
• Piazza del Popolo - with the twin churches
• Piazza della Minerva- a small piazza just behind the Pantheon. The centerpiece is a statue of an elephant by Bernini with an ancient obelisk on its back
• Piazza delle Coppelle
• Piazza di Sant'Ignazio- small and attractive piazza tucked away in a neighborhood near Pantheon
• Piazza Montecitorio - where you can find the building of the House or Representatives
• Piazza Colonna - where there is the building of the Italian Government, Palazzo Chigi. Also there is a marvelous carved column (hence the name) dating back to Imperial Rome
• Piazza Barberini - with Bernini's famous Triton Fountain. Via Veneto starts here too.
• Piazza della Rotonda - where you can see the Pantheon
• Piazza Venezia- more of an enormous traffic circle than a piazza, but a good central location. The centerpiece is the enormous Vittorio Emmanuale Monument (aka the Wedding Cake) with the Capitoline hill next door. Piazza Venezia is also very close to the Forum
• Piazza del Campidoglio - On top of the Capitol hill. It was designed by Michelangelo. The Capitoline Museum is housed in the palaces flanking the piazza. You can walk behind the palaces and to a wonderful viewpoint which overlooks the entire Forum

Historical Buildings

• Palazzo Venezia In the very heart of the city center, the building was for centuries ago the seat of the Venice embassy. Today it houses a museum and galleries art.

• Palazzo della Cancelleria

• Palazzo Farnese

• Palazzo della Sapienza - 8, Corso Rinascimento tel 06 686 4987. Bus 70 81, 87, 492. Close to Navona square, this building housed the University of Rome since the middle of the 15th century until 1935. The splendid interior courtyard was created by Giacomo della Porta. The inside church of St Ivo is one of the masterpieces of Architect Borromini.

• Palazzo Altemps - 8, Sant' Apollinare street tel.06 6897091. Bus 70, 81, 87, 492. Simple and elegant lines make up this building, whose construction began in 1480 for Count Girolamo Riario, nephew of Papa Sisto IV and was taken up by architect Martino Longhi for the new owner, Cardinal Marco Sittico Altemps.

• Palazzo Taverna - Via di Monte Giordano. The building is located in one of the most set-apart corners of the city center among the Navona square and Castel Sant Angelo. It served as residence for the Orsini Family. Nowatdays it is a private property and one can only glance at the courtyard and the inside amazing fountain erected in 1618 by architect Antonio Casoni. However, the brief moment is worth it.

• Palazzo Crivelli - Via dei Banchi vecchi, 22 This building also know as the Doll House was built in the 16th century. It is unique for the quantity and quality of the decorations - lions heads, satyrs and disfigured heads that adorn the facade attributed to the sculptor Giulio Mazzoni.

• Palazzo Spada Piazza Capo di Ferro - This building was erected in the 16th century by Giulio Merisi Caravaggio for Cardinal Capodiferro. One century later it was acquired by another powerful Cardinal, Bernardino Spada and was restored by Borromini.

• Palazzo Barberini

• Villa Farnesina This Renaissance house is in Trastevere, very close to the river and not far from the Vatican. You can tour several beautiful rooms covered in frescoes, including some by Raphael.

Others

• Castel Sant'Angelo - Perhaps the most facinating building in Rome. The core of the structure began life as the mausoleum of the Emperor Hadrian, built between 135 and 139 AD. Subsequent strongholds built on top of the mausoleum were in turn incorporated into a residence and castle by medieval Popes. The building was used as a prison until 1870, but now houses a museum. Opera buffs will be exhilarated to visit the balcony from which Tosca leaps to her death.
• Trastevere
• Il Gianicolo
• Piramid, at the Piramid metro station.

The Pyramid

Do

Walk and feel the energy of the place, sights are everywhere waiting to be discovered. Explore the Trastevere neighbourhood for some great cafes and trattorie, and a glimpse at a hip Roman neighbourhood.

Partying in Rome is a pretty easy thing to do. Given a heart for exploration, Testaccio is the place to wander. Head down there around 11pm and listen for music. The outsides of the clubs will give you NO idea what the insides are like. There are usually loads of people simply walking through the street or looking for parking. Be brave, walk in, meet some wonderful Romans, but never buy them drinks unless you are looking for sex (in this case, better to be sure you are inviting the right person). This area is best in the summer when the dancing moves outside. In the winter, most clubs close.

Stay safe

Rome is generally a safe place, even for women travelling alone. As in any big city, it is better if you don't look like a tourist: don't exhibit your camera or camcorder to all and sundry, and keep your money in a safe place. Termini (the main railway station), Esquilino and bus line 64 (Termini to San Pietro) are not so safe, so take extra care in these areas. Read up on the legends concerning tourist scams. Most of them occur regularly in Rome and you will want to see them coming. Watch out especially for bands of kids who will crowd you and reach for your pockets under the cover of newspapers or cardboard sheets. One of the best ways to avoid pickpocketing is to where a money belt (different from a fanny pack, worn under clothes). Remember, if you are pickpocketed or another scam, don't be afraid to shout Aiuto, Ladro! (Help, Thief!). Romans will not be nice to the thief.

Rome is also home to two rival Serie A football clubs, A.S. Roma and S.S. Lazio, and there is a history of conflict, and even rioting, between the two. If you dare to wear anything that supports either of them, especially during the Rome Derby (when the two clubs play each other), make sure you don't wander into supporters of the other club, or you may be subject to heckling or even confrontation. Play it safe and refrain from openly supporting either club unless you are very familiar with the rivalry.